Cacio e Pepe

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2021

Another classic Italian “cucina contadina” recipe, Cacio e Pepe (cheese and pepper) probably originated in the Lazio region of Italy. Food historians attribute the recipe to the traditional food of country shepherds dating back to the time of the Roman Empire. Today it is a famous classic pasta dish of Rome and like any classic dish, there are many variations. The original recipe calls for Pecorino Romano cheese, “cacio” in Roman dialect, but some contemporary recipes use a combination of Pecorino Romano and Parmesano Regiano, or Grana Padano, while some other contemporary recipes call for using olive oil, or butter, or milk in the sauce. This version maintains a commitment to the classic recipe calling for only four ingredients: Pecorino Romano (cacio), black pepper (pepe), a thick pasta like bucatini, and some of the hot starchy water the pasta is cooked in. Timing (technique) is everything with this simple but delicious pasta dish. Don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t come out perfectly the first time. Getting the finely grated cheese to emulsify without clumping is the trick. This recipe is a road map, adjust your method according to your kitchen and tastes. Persist and you will be rewarded! Check out the YouTube video link to develop your own method! Mangia e buon appetito!

Cacio e Pepi
Serves 2-3

Ingredients:
·   6 ounces of a thick pasta like bucatini (a little less than ½ a box)
·   1 ½ – 2 teaspoons coarsely cracked/crushed black pepper (you want the sauce to be peppery; use a
meat mallet or some other heavy instrument to crack the peppercorns between pieces of paper)
·   1- 1 ½ cups finely grated Pecorino Romano (use the finest grater on a box grater)
·   Pasta water
·   salt for the pasta water

Method:
1. Bring 6-8 cups of water to a boil. (depending on the size of your pot; you want the pasta to just be submerged) Add a couple of teaspoons of salt to the boiling water, add the pasta, and cook, stirring occasionally, until about 2 minutes before the instructions on the box call for “al dente”. (if a 9 minute normal cook time, cook for 7 minutes) Use less water than the instructions on the box call for because you want the cooking water to be very starchy to create the creamy sauce (“cremina”). 

2. Meanwhile, over low heat in a heated dutch oven or another heavy bottom pan, toast the cracked black pepper until it is fragrant (about a minute or less, don’t burn it) Add ½ cup starchy pasta cooking water to the toasted pepper and reduce until the water is almost evaporated. 

3. While the pepper and pasta water sauce is reducing, in a warm bowl, add 1 cup hot pasta water to the Pecorino Romano and stir vigorously until you have a smooth, velvety sauce. (Note: about a 1-1 ratio of starchy water to the finely grated cheese.) 

4. (Don’t drain the pasta.) Add a ½ cup of hot pasta water to the pan with the black pepper and bring to a boil. Using tongs, add the undercooked pasta to the pan and continue cooking until al dente (not mushy!). 

5. Remove the pan from the heat, add the Pecorino sauce to the pasta, a little at a time, stirring constantly to make the luscious creamy sauce. Once the pasta is cooked to al dente and the sauce is velvety and creamy, your cacio e pepe is done. If the pasta is too dry and the sauce too thick and pasty and not saucy enough, slowly add a few tablespoons more of hot pasta water, stirring vigorously until the sauce is saucy and velvety, but not thin. (It should stick to the pasta and slowly drip off when you lift the pasta out of the pan.) 

6. Serve immediately in warmed bowls. Garnish with some more black pepper and Pecorino. You can also add a few red pepper flakes (optional). Good crusty bread is highly recommended. 

Serve as the “primi” for a big Italian meal, or as your main course for a simple weeknight meal along with a green salad, or grilled vegetables, or a Caprese salad of tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil, and olive oil. Mangia e buon appetito! 

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2021

Wine pairing:  choose wines that will stand up to this creamy peppery dish. For whites wines try Pinot Grigio, Orvieto, Vermentino, or a dry Riesling; red wines include Chianti, Pinot Noir, or a fruity Merlot.
https://www.lacucinaitaliana.com/italian-food/how-to-cook/cacio-e-pepe-guide-to-cook
https://greatist.com/eat/lidia-bastianich-takes-us-through-the-history-of-cacio-e-pepe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btpR-RpY-3Q (Highly recommend this video for the proper method.)

Creamy Parmesan Polenta

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2020 Copy and paste to print the recipe.  CREAMY PARMESAN POLENTA Serves: 6-8 Ingredients:  4 cups of water  1 cup half-and-half or whole milk  1 ½ teaspoons salt  1 cup coarse grind cornmeal  3 tablespoons butter  1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese  pinch of baking soda (to help it cook faster)  Preparation: 1. Bring the water and milk to a boil in a heavy-duty saucepan or small Dutch oven. Stir in 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. 2. Gradually sprinkle the polenta into the pan while whisking at the same time. Turn the heat to a very low simmer, cover and continue to cook the polenta for 25-30 minutes, until it's thick, fluffy and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. Stir occasionally so it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan. 3. When it's done, remove from the heat and stir in the butter, cheese, and additional salt to taste if needed. 4. Serve warm, sprinkled with additional cheese if desired and the topping of your choice.  References: America’s Test Kitchen @testkitchen, Ina Garten @barefootcontessa, Giada de Laurentiis @gidadelaurentiis, and Lidia Bastianich, “Lidia’s Italian Table”.

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2020
Copy and paste to print the recipe.

CREAMY PARMESAN POLENTA
Serves: 6-8
Ingredients:
4 cups of water
1 cup half-and-half or whole milk
1 ½ teaspoons salt
1 cup coarse grind cornmeal
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
pinch of baking soda (to help it cook faster)

Preparation:
1. Bring the water and milk to a boil in a heavy-duty saucepan or small Dutch oven. Stir in 1 1/2 teaspoons salt.
2. Gradually sprinkle the polenta into the pan while whisking at the same time. Turn the heat to a very low simmer, cover and continue to cook the polenta for 25-30 minutes, until it's thick, fluffy and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. Stir occasionally so it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan.
3. When it's done, remove from the heat and stir in the butter, cheese, and additional salt to taste if needed.
4. Serve warm, sprinkled with additional cheese if desired and the topping of your choice.

References: America’s Test Kitchen @testkitchen, Ina Garten @barefootcontessa, Giada de Laurentiis @gidadelaurentiis, and Lidia Bastianich, “Lidia’s Italian Table”.

In most places where corn or maize is grown, there is probably a local version of cornmeal mush that is used to make fried bread-like pancakes or is used as a vehicle to put a sauce or stew over. In Italy it’s called Polenta, in Kenya and Tanzania it’s called Ugali, Central African countries call it Sadza. In meso-America, Elote is a maize-based drink that dates back to pre-Columbian indigenous people and traditional corn tortillas (flatbread) have become a staple in many parts of the world. Indigenous native Americans made cornmeal porridge and fried cornmeal bread-like pancakes. Early American settlers made a sweet Indian Pudding using cornmeal instead of ground wheat which was scarce in the New World colonies. Hoe-cakes and Johnny-cakes are contemporary regional versions of fried cornmeal pancakes that date back to early U.S. European settlers, and of course, the southern U.S. version of polenta is called Grits. This polenta pairs well with the Braised Beef Short Ribs on the website/blog or a simple marinara, or sauteed vegetables.

Spaghetti and Meatballs

Every family has their own favorite tomato sauce for pasta. My family recipe came from my grandmother’s long time neighbor Mrs. Andreoli from Abruzzo, Italy and like many family recipes, it was never written down; my grandmother taught me to make it when I was young. Over the years, I’ve tinkered with it, trying recipes from Lydia Bastianich to Marcella Hazan and others to “perfect” what I remember from my childhood. This recipe includes chopped pancetta, which is used in Amatriciana style tomato sauce, but otherwise it is true to Mrs. Andreoli’s recipe. I prefer to use “spaghetti rigati” which has ridges that hold the sauce, but use any substantial pasta of your choice. This recipe takes some time and should be a labor of love. Left-over sauce and meatballs will keep in the fridge for a few days, or can be frozen for up to 3 months in the freezer. Buon appetito!

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2019 - Spaghetti and Meatballs

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2019 - Spaghetti and Meatballs

Serves 6-8

For the sauce:

Ingredients:

  • 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

  • 4 oz. thinly sliced chopped pancetta

  • 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

  • 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

  • 1 good-sized onion (about 3/4 cup minced onion)

  • 3 Tbs. tomato paste

  • 7 cloves garlic, minced

  • 3 sprigs fresh basil

  • 2 28-oz. can peeled San Marzano tomatoes with juices, broken up and crushed

  • 1 cup dry red wine

  • Kosher salt

Preparation:

  1. Heat oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add pancetta and sauté until crisp and golden, about 4 minutes.

  2. Add pepper flakes and black pepper; stir for 10 seconds.

  3. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring often, until soft, about 8 minutes.

  4. Add the tomato paste and stir to combine with the onion and garlic; cook for a minute or two.

  5. Add tomatoes, basil, and wine; reduce heat to low, and cook for an hour, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens and the flavors meld.

  6. Remove the sprigs of Basil

  7. Reserve a cup of sauce to dress the pasta after you drain it.

(Note: if your sauce is too acid, add a couple of teaspoons of sugar to taste. If you don’t want to add sugar, you can mince up a small carrot and ½ stalk of minced celery and add it while sauteing the onion and garlic.)

For the meatballs:

Yield: about 24 small meatballs

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup roughly torn day-old Italian or another hearty country-style white bread, crusts removed

  • 1 cup whole milk

  • 8 ounces ground beef

  • 8 ounces ground pork

  • 8 ounces ground veal (Alternatively, omit the veal and use 1 ½ lb. of mixed beef and pork)

  • 2 large eggs, beaten to blend

  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

  • 1 1/4 cups grated Parmesan, divided

  • 3/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley, divided

  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more

  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano (Alternatively, use 1 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary or 1 tsp. dried/ground rosemary)

  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground fennel seeds

  • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

  • 1/4 cup olive oil

Preparation:

  1. Place bread in a medium bowl, add milk, and let rest until moistened, about 5 minutes. Squeeze bread with your hands to remove excess milk, discarding milk. Tear bread into smaller, pea-size pieces and return to the medium bowl.

  2. Combine beef, pork, veal, eggs, garlic, 1 cup Parmesan, 1/2 cup parsley, 1 tsp. salt, oregano, pepper, fennel, and red pepper flakes in a large bowl. Using your hands, gently mix in bread until ingredients are evenly distributed (do not over mix or the meatballs will be tough).

  3. Fill a small bowl with cool water. Moisten your hands and roll meat mixture between palms into golf-ball-sized balls, occasionally moistening hands as needed.

  4. Working in batches, add 1-2 Tbs. olive oil to a skillet over medium heat and brown the meatballs adding more oil as necessary between batches. Add the browned meatballs to the simmering sauce as you brown them.

  5. After all the meatballs have been added to the sauce, add a cup of sauce to the skillet and deglaze it scraping up the caramelized pieces of meat left in the skillet; add to your pot of sauce and meatballs.

  6. Simmer meatballs in the sauce for at least 30 minutes or preferably an hour more.

Cook the Spaghetti and Serve:

  • Cook spaghetti (1 lb. box for 4 people) in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente.

  • Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta cooking liquid, and return pasta to pot over medium-low heat.

  • Spoon reserved 1- 1 1/2 cups sauce over pasta and toss to coat. Add pasta cooking liquid, 1/4 cup at a time, as needed to loosen sauce and coat pasta.

  • Divide pasta among plates and top with remaining sauce and meatballs.

  • Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan and 1/4 cup chopped parsley or fresh basil.

*Note: you can make the sauce a day ahead and refrigerate overnight. Bring to a simmer while you assemble and brown the meatballs.

For a good primer on the differences between styles of Italian tomato sauces, I recommend Lidia’s Italian Table by Lidia Bastianich, William Morrow,and Company, 1998.