New England Clam Chowder →

Food memories from my childhood are some of my fondest memories. As a native New Englander who spent the summers of his early years near the Rhode Island shore digging for clams, crabbing, and surf fishing, I am somewhat opinionated about seafood. In those days my grandfather and I could gather a bushel basket of littlenecks and cherrystone clams in a few hours. As we shucked them, we ate our fill of the succulent, briny raw littlenecks, then my grandmother would turn the harvest into clam cakes (fritters) and delicious New England Clam Chowder; sometimes the clear version, but my favorite was creamy, briny chowder full of chopped clams, diced potatoes, onion, celery, and salt pork or bacon. In honor of those childhood memories, recently I decided to research clam chowder recipes to develop my own ideal version of New England Clam Chowder: no tough, tasteless, over-cooked clams, or thick, pasty soup you-can-stand-a-spoon-up-in for me. My quest was for a delicate, creamy soup full of tender, barely cooked clams, accompanied by the usual potatoes, salt pork (or bacon), and aromatic vegetables. The following recipe meets my gastro-geek standards thanks to food consultant J. Kenji López-Alt who taught me about the magic of emulsifying the broth to create a delicate, creamy soup base without using flour and when to add the chopped clams so they don’t end up tough and tasteless. Apart from the broth, I tweaked my recipe departing from López-Alt’s to meet my own culinary aesthetic. The link to the original López-Alt recipe can be found at the end of this post. If you cook at home, you don’t have to settle for less-than-perfect clam chowder. Here’s my version. Enjoy! 

New England Clam Chowder
Serves 4 as a main; 6 as a starter

Ingredients

• ¼ pound pancetta, salt pork, or slab bacon, cut into ¼ inch dice (Salt pork adds saltiness; bacon will add a smokey note to the chowder; pancetta is not traditional, but I like it in place of smokey bacon.)

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

• 2 stalks of celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

• 1 cup bottled clam juice

• 2 ½ -3 pounds live cherrystone or littleneck clams (1-1 ½ cups chopped. See *Notes)

• 1 quart whole milk

• 1 pound+ of russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼ inch cubes (You want about 4 cups of diced potatoes)

• 2 bay leaves

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper (Optional: use a pinch of celery salt in place of the Kosher salt.)

• 1 cup heavy cream

• Oyster crackers, saltines, or croutons for serving

Preparation

1. Sauté the diced pancetta or bacon in a heavy-bottomed stock pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the fat has rendered, and the pork is brown and crisp, about 8 minutes. Add butter, onion, and celery. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened but not browned, about 4 minutes longer. Add the clam juice and stir to combine. (Note: if using chopped clams from a fish monger, in a separate pan, bring the bottled clam juice to a boil with a bay leaf, add the chopped clams and shut the heat off. Wait a minute and strain the clam juice into the saute reserving the clams for the last step.)

2. Add whole clams and increase heat to high. Cover and cook, opening the lid to stir occasionally, until clams begin to open, about 3 minutes. As clams open, remove them with tongs and transfer to a large bowl, keeping as many juices in the pot as possible and keeping the lid shut as much as possible. After 8 minutes, discard any clams that have not yet begun to open.

3. Reduce heat to medium-high and add the milk, potatoes, bay leaves, and a pinch of salt and a few turns of freshly ground black pepper to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender and just starting to break down, about 8-10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, remove the meat from the clamshells and chop it. Discard the empty shells (or sterilize them for a few minutes in boiling water and save them for your next batch of Baked Stuffed Clams). Transfer the chopped clams and as much juice as possible to a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl. Let the clams drain, then transfer the chopped clams to a separate bowl. Set both bowls aside.

5. Once the potatoes are tender, pour the entire mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into the bowl with the clam juice gently stirring the mixture to allow the liquids to pass through. Transfer the strained solids to the bowl with the chopped clams. You should end up with a white, semi-broken broth in the bowl underneath, and the chopped clams, potatoes, pancetta, and aromatics in a separate bowl.

6. Transfer the liquid to a blender and blend on medium-high speed until smooth and emulsified, about 2 minutes. Return the liquid and solids back to the Dutch oven. Add heavy cream and stir to combine. Reheat until well heated and simmering. (do not boil!) Taste and season with salt and pepper to suite your taste. Serve immediately with oyster crackers or Saltines.

Wine Pairing: Dry, white wines like Chablis, Vermentino, Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc

*Notes
For the best results, use live clams. If live clams are unavailable, skip steps 2 and 4. In step 6, add 1-1 ½ cups of chopped clams from your fishmonger, canned, or frozen clams to the chowder before heating through to serve.
Adapted from a recipe from: https://www.seriouseats.com/new-england-clam-chowder-recipe
J. Kenji López-Alt- food consultant to SeriousEats and NY Time food columnist
History:
https://www.thymemachinecuisine.com/single-post/2019/02/25/new-england-clam-chowder-the-history-of-the-name-origins-and-a-war
https://ictnews.org/archive/they-stole-our-soup-the-native-origins-of-new-england-clam-chowder

Cajun Bean Soup →

A common conundrum after cooking a bone-in ham is what to do with the ham bone and leftover ham. Problem solved! Loaded with healthy legumes, sofrito vegetables, and hearty spices, this soup makes good use of your leftover ham bone and some of the extra ham from that Easter Ham you cooked. Add some spicy smokey Andouille sausage to the mix and you’ve got a winner on your table!  Laissez le bon temps rouler! Bon appétit y’all!  

Cajun Bean Soup
Serves 8 

INGREDIENTS 

• Water - for soaking beans

• Pinch of baking soda + 1 teaspoon of salt

• 1 ½ pounds of 7 bean mix (or use 15 bean mix if you can find it; discard the seasoning packet)

• 1 large onion - chopped

• 1 large green bell pepper - chopped

• 2 stalks of celery - chopped

• 6 cloves garlic - finely chopped

• 8 cups chicken broth

• 2 bay leaves

• 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning (this gives you a mild-to-medium spicy heat: add more spice if you want more heat)

• 1 can (15-ounce) diced fire-roasted tomatoes - undrained

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• ¾ - 1 pound Andouille sausage - sliced

• 1 ham bone with ham on it or a ham-hock or 8 ounces of diced leftover ham

• 4 slices of bacon - cooked crisp and crumbled

• ½ cup chopped fresh parsley

• Hot sauce to taste (use your favorite hot sauce)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper - to taste 

PREPARATION 

1. Approximately 1 hour before starting the slow cooker, bring a large saucepan with water to a boil. You want enough water in the pan so the beans will be covered by at least an inch of water. Rinse the beans and check for stones. Add the beans, a pinch of baking soda, and 1 teaspoon of salt to the boiling water; turn off the heat, cover, and let stand for 1 hour. Drain.

2. While the beans are soaking, in a large, heavy-bottom skillet, sauté the bacon until crispy and set aside on a paper towel. Brown the sausage and set it aside with the bacon.

3. In the same pan, sauté the onion, green bell pepper, celery, and garlic until barely tender scraping up any caramelized brown bits on the bottom of the pan.

4. Combine the beans, onion, green bell pepper, celery, garlic, chicken broth, bay leaves, and ham bone in a slow cooker. Cook 4 hours on high or 7-8 hours on low.

5. When the beans have approximately 1 hour to go on high or 2 hours to go on low, remove the ham bone and set it aside to cool so you can remove any ham left on the bone. You want about a cup of ham, so add diced ham to make a cup if necessary. Discard the bone.

6. Add the Cajun seasoning, tomatoes, tomato paste, sliced sausage, ham, and bacon to the slow cooker. Mix well, cover, and complete the slow cooker cycle.

7. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Adjust the salt and black pepper to taste and serve garnished with chopped parsley and hot sauce on the side. A good crusty bread for dipping is mandatory! 

Leftover soup can be kept covered in the fridge for about five days, or frozen for about three months.

Wine pairing: full-bodied off-dry white wines like Riesling, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, or Chenin blank pair well with this soup. You could also try a Pilsner or Lager beer, or a Porter or Brown Ale. Avoid overly hoppy beers.

Adapted from: https://www.fromachefskitchen.com/slow-cooker-cajun-15-bean-soup

Spicy Shrimp Chowder →

It’s officially Autumn here in the Happy Valley. Time to start thinking about cool weather soups, stews, and chowders. The late harvest corn and other fresh vegetables will be available for only a short time, so I thought now is a good time for this recipe. Farm-fresh sweet corn, onions, and potatoes, smoky bacon, and spicy shrimp swimming in a sweet-savory cream-based broth. Now that’s a chowdah y’all! Enjoy!

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2021

Spicy Shrimp Chowder
Serves 6

Ingredients:
·  1 pound shrimp, tails removed
·  2 teaspoons Cajun seasoning
·  Sea salt
·  Freshly ground black pepper
·  6 slices bacon, chopped
·  1 tablespoon butter
·  1 medium onion, chopped
·  2 cloves garlic, minced
·  1 stalk of celery chopped
·  2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
·  1 pound of potatoes, ½ inch dice
·  4 cups clam juice or chicken broth (I used lobster broth I had made and frozen previously)
·  3 thyme sprigs
·  2 sliced green onions
·  3 cups sweet corn (preferably farm-fresh, but frozen will work)
·  3/4 cup half-and-half
·  1/2 teaspoon paprika
·  Chopped parsley for garnish

Preparation:
1. Season shrimp all over with Cajun seasoning, salt, and pepper. In a large heavy bottom pot over medium heat, cook bacon until crispy, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, strain the bacon pieces and place them on a paper towel-lined plate.

2. Add shrimp to the bacon fat and cook until pink, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the shrimp to the plate with bacon.

3. Drain the bacon fat leaving 1 tablespoon and melt the butter in the pot, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add onion and celery and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and flour and cook, stirring, 30 seconds to a minute more.

4. Add potatoes, broth, thyme, and green onions, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.

5. Stir in corn and cream, and simmer 5 minutes more. Turn off heat and stir in cooked shrimp and season with salt, pepper, and paprika.

6.      Garnish with chopped parsley (optional)

Wine pairing: a dry Riesling is a perfect pair with this creamy, slightly spicy chowder. You could also try a food-friendly Viognier or soft Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc.

Adapted from: https://www.delish.com/cooking/recipe-ideas/a22999404/cajun-shrimp-chowder-recipe/

Lobster Bisque →

For most of us, cooking lobster is an expensive splurge for a special occasion, so it makes sense to maximize the use of as much of the spiny crustacean as possible. Given the current price of lobsters, it’s hard to believe that they were once considered “cockroaches of the sea” and used as fertilizer on gardens and a cheap source of protein for poor folks, prisoners, and slaves. The first mention of bisque as a shellfish soup dates back to the 17th century. Bisque was not initially a fancy soup but contained finely crushed shells of whatever seafood was used, leading food historians to suggest that it was a fisherman’s dish, designed to get the most flavor out of ingredients at hand. It wasn’t until the mid-1800’s that lobster became regarded as the culinary delicacy that it is today. So enjoy your lobster rolls, Lobster Thermador, Lobster Pie, Lobster Risotto, or Homard Parfumé à L'absinthe, but at $10.-$15. (or more) a pound for live lobster, don’t throw away the carcasses! You can maximize your investment and double your pleasure by making delicious lobster bisque. This has been my go-to recipe for lobster bisque for many years. If two rich meals of lobster in a row are too much for you, the stock from this recipe can be frozen for future use before adding the cream. Bon appétit!

Lobster Bisque
about 6- ½ cup servings

Ingredients:

• 2 1-pound live lobsters
• 2 tablespoons olive oil (or 1 tablespoon each of olive oil and butter)
• 1 onion, sliced
• 1 large celery stalk, sliced
• 1 small carrot, sliced
• ½ fennel bulb with fronds
• ½ cup brandy
• ½ cup dry Sherry
• 4 cups fish stock or bottled clam juice
• 1 garlic head, cut in half crosswise
• 1 tomato, sliced
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• 8 whole black peppercorns
• ¼ cup tomato paste
• ½ cup heavy cream (you can substitute half-and-half cream but it won’t be as creamy)
• 2 teaspoons cornstarch
• 1 tablespoon water

Preparation:

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add the lobsters headfirst and boil until cooked through, about 8 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the lobsters to a large bowl. Reserve 2 cups of cooking liquid. Cool the lobsters.

2. Working over a large bowl to catch juices, tear off the lobster tails and claws. Crack the tail and claw shells and remove the meat and set aside in the fridge for another meal or to add to the bisque. Coarsely chop the shells and bodies; transfer to a medium bowl. Reserve the juices from the lobster in a large bowl.

3. Heat olive oil in a heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add the lobster shells and bodies and sauté until the shells begin to brown. Add the onion and the next 8 ingredients. Mix in the brandy and Sherry. Boil until almost all liquid has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add the fish stock, and reserved 2 cups of lobster cooking liquid and lobster juices, fresh herbs, and peppercorns, and simmer for 1 hour.

4. Strain the soup through a sieve set over a large saucepan, pressing firmly on solids to extract the juices. Whisk the tomato paste into the soup. Simmer until the soup is reduced to 3 cups, about 15 minutes. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

5. Add cream to the soup and simmer for 5 minutes. Dissolve cornstarch in 1 tablespoon of water. Add to the soup and boil until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.

6. Optional: mix the chopped lobster meat into the soup and stir to heat through. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve with good crusty bread for dipping.

Source: 1997- https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/lobster-bisque-4092

Turkey Kale and White Bean Soup →

This easy to make soup uses left-over cooked turkey or chicken, canned white beans, and pre-made chicken stock flavored with a smokey sausage like linguiça or chorizo, garlic, leek, and onion. The secret ingredient is Portuguese Red Pepper Paste which is a staple condiment in Portuguese cooking. The soup will still be delicious, hearty, and healthy without the red pepper paste, but this condiment gives the soup its distinctive flavor. I highly recommend you take a few minutes to make a small batch of this delicious flavoring condiment to keep in your fridge. Use it in soups, sauces, or to flavor meat, fish, or poultry.

Turkey Kale and White Bean Soup
Serves 6

Ingredients:

• 1-2 cups kale middle rib removed; torn in pieces

• a 10-inch leek sliced white and pale green parts only

• 1 medium onion chopped (add another onion if you don’t use the leek)

• 4 cloves of garlic chopped

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• a 6-inch piece of linguiça or chorizo sliced thin and chopped

• 1 cup cooked turkey or chicken cut into 1-inch pieces

• 2-15 ounce cans of cannellini or white navy beans

• 2 tablespoons Portuguese Red Pepper Paste

• 2 quarts of low-sodium chicken stock

• ½ teaspoon black pepper

Preparation:

1. Sautee the linguiça for a minute or two then add the leek, onion and garlic and sautee until the vegetables become soft.

2. Add the torn kale and sautee until it begins to wilt.

3. Add the red pepper paste and black pepper and stir for a minute before adding the chicken stock, turkey, and beans.

4. Simmer for a half-hour if you’re in a rush or preferably an hour to meld the flavors. Serve hot with a crusty bread.

Wooing Fish Chowder →

I served Craig Claiborne’s version of this dish the first time I cooked for my future wife almost 40 years ago. Little did I know at that time that she would become my favorite sous chef and hostess for dinner parties at Chez Fairfield. The original recipe, “Fish Soup au Cognac”, comes from the New York Times International Cookbook by Craig Claiborne, but I have altered it over the years to make it my own and a bit more like a chowder than a soup. According to Claiborne, the original version makes a wonderful starter for a larger meal. My version incorporates the tastes into a meal in itself. Enjoy them both!

Wooing Fish Chowder

Serves 4-6
Ingredients:

• 1 pound cod or other white, firm-fleshed fish cut into 2-3 inch chunks.

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 tablespoon minced garlic

• 1 cup chopped onion (or finely sliced leeks, white and pale green parts only)

• 1 cup chopped fennel bulb or celery (fennel cored, white part only; fronds reserved for garnish)

• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme (¾ teaspoon dried)

• 1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds

• ½ teaspoon saffron crumbled (optional)

• a couple of dashes of Tabasco or your favorite hot sauce

• 1-8 ounce bottle clam juice

• 1 cup dry white wine

• 1/3 cup canned crushed tomatoes or puree

• 1 large white Russet potato cut into ½ inch chunks

• 3 tablespoons Brandy or Cognac

• 5 cups of ½ and ½ cream

• ½ teaspoon salt; ¼ teaspoon black pepper (or more to taste)

• 1-2 tablespoons Anisette, Pernod, or other anise-flavored liquor (optional but recommended)

• fennel fronds for garnish

Preparation:

1. In a dutch oven or other heavy bottom pot, heat the oil and saute the onion, garlic, fennel (or celery), fennel seeds, thyme, and saffron until the onion is wilted and the fennel has softened.

2. Add the wine, crushed tomatoes, and clam juice and bring to a boil stirring constantly until the mixture reduces and begins to thicken; lower the heat and simmer for 5-10 minutes stirring occasionally.

3. Add the potatoes, then add water to cover the potatoes, and boil until almost tender when pierced with a fork (about 10-15 minutes)

4. Add the fish and lower the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 3-4 minutes

5. Add the cream, salt and pepper, and Brandy and simmer on low for about 5 minutes until the soup is hot. (Do not boil or the cream will curdle.)

6. Remove from heat, add Anisette, and adjust salt and pepper if necessary.

7. Serve garnished with reserved fennel fronds and accompanied with good crusty bread for dipping.

Wine pairing: non-oaky Chardonnay, Chablis, White Burgundy, Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Albariño, Verdejo

Smooth Andalusian Gazpacho →

Photo c. foodblogchef 2020
Salmorejo garnished with croutons, chopped hard-boiled egg, and jamón ibérico.

Spanish Gazpacho, a chilled tomato-based vegetable soup, is one of the most popular cold soups in the world. Before I traveled in Spain I was only familiar with the chunky style of Gazpacho commonly served here in the United States. Gazpacho, also called Salmorejo in Cordoba, originated in southern Spain in the province of Andalusia. Authentic Andalusian Salmorejo is more commonly served smooth, not chunky, and flavored with fresh tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and local sherry vinegar and garnished with a combination of chunks of vegetables, pieces of stale bread (or croutons), chopped hard-boiled eggs, and/or chopped Iberian Ham. While in Cordoba I encountered a beautiful tile wall attributed to the town government of Cordoba entitled “Receta del Salmorejo Cordobés” (Recipe for Cordobés Salmorejo). I guess that makes it an official cultural gastronomic icon! When I returned from Spain, researching Gazpacho and Salmorejo recipes became a project for me to come up with my ideal recipe for Gazpacho. Thanks to Julia Moskin at New York Times Cooking and Chef José Andres whose recipes come closest to my ideal Gazpacho. Here it is. Buen apetito!

Serves: 8
Ingredients:

Photo c. foodblogchef 2018

• About 2 pounds ripe red tomatoes, seeded, and roughly cut into chunks (about 8-9 Roma tomatoes)

• 1 Italian frying (cubanelle) pepper or another long, light green pepper, such as Anaheim, cored, seeded, and roughly cut into chunks. (I prefer the fruitier cubanelle pepper to the common green pepper)

• 1 cucumber, about 8 inches long, peeled and roughly cut into chunks

• 1 small mild onion (white or red), peeled and roughly cut into chunks

• 1 clove garlic

• 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, more to taste

• 1 teaspoon salt

• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, more to taste, plus more for drizzling

• Freshly ground black pepper

• Assorted garnishes to your taste including chopped hard-boiled eggs and Iberian ham (or prosciutto), sauteed shrimp, slivered toasted almonds, toasted pieces of a rustic style bread, cherry tomatoes, diced cucumber, diced avocado, fried capers, chopped chives, and/or quartered pearl onions pulled apart.

Preparation:

Salmorejo garnished with fried capers, diced avocado, and adobo sauteed shrimp.

1. Combine tomatoes, pepper, cucumber, onion, and garlic in a blender or, if using a hand blender, in a deep bowl. (If necessary, work in batches) Blend at high speed until very smooth, at least 2 minutes, pausing occasionally to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula.

2. With the motor running, add the vinegar and 1 teaspoon of salt.

3. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil. The mixture will turn bright orange or dark pink and become smooth and emulsified, like a salad dressing. If it still seems watery, drizzle in more olive oil until the texture is creamy.

4. Strain the mixture through a strainer or a food mill, pushing all the liquid through with a spatula or the back of a ladle. Discard the solids.

5. Transfer to a large pitcher (preferably glass) and chill until very cold, at least 6 hours or overnight.

6. Before serving, adjust the seasonings with salt and vinegar.

7. If the soup is very thick, stir in a few tablespoons of ice water.

8. Serve the soup chilled in glasses as appetizers or in a bowl if you are serving it as a first course or a light main meal.

9. A drizzle of olive oil on top is a nice touch. In addition to combinations of the garnishes listed above, if I have any left-over in the fridge, I especially like to add 2-3 Spicy Cajun Shrimp to the bowl before pouring on the soup to make it a main meal.

   
   https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017577-best-gazpacho @Julia Moskin
   https://www.delish.com/cooking/a1114/jose-andres-gazpacho-recipe/

Creamy Chilled Cantaloupe Soup →

As summer heats up and the fresh produce starts appearing at the farm stands here in the Happy Valley, my thoughts go to light refreshing chilled soups. Sweet and savory, creamy chilled cantaloupe soup is the perfect cool summer soup to serve as a light meal or as a starter for a bigger meal. It's souper-easy and takes less than a half hour to make. Enjoy!

Yield: about 5 cups of soup
Ingredients:

• 6 cups cubed cantaloupe (about ½ a large melon)

• ½ cup crème fraiche

• 2 teaspoons minced jalapeño (more if you want more heat)

• ½ teaspoon salt

• minced red onion and thinly

• sliced cilantro or mint for garnish

Preparation:
1. Add the first four ingredients to a blender and process until smooth.
2. Chill the soup for half an hour or more and serve.
3. Garnish with minced red onion and thinly sliced cilantro or mint.

Asparagus Avocado Soup →

Our soup-Jedi friend in Montreal makes great creamy soups out of her leftover vegetables or salads and herbs. She throws everything into a blender with some broth and crème fraîche and blends until smooth, et voilà! Great soup for lunch! I had some leftover asparagus and avocado that needed to be eaten, so I thought I'd try to imitate Jeannot's magic. After some research, this is what I came up with. C'est fun!

Serves 4-6
Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium shallot chopped roughly

• 2-3 inch piece of jalapeño seeded and chopped (a whole one to “kick it up a notch”)

• ½ teaspoon salt

• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

• a small bunch of asparagus

• 3 cups broth (vegetable or chicken)

• 1 avocado peeled, seeded

• 3-4 teaspoons lime juice

• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

• 1/4 cup sour cream or crème fraîche

• 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro for garnish (optional)

• You can also reserve several asparagus tops for garnish

• Tomato or finely chopped sweet red pepper can also be used as an optional garnish

Preparation:

1. Rinse asparagus and chop 1-2 inches off base to remove the toughest part of the stalk.

2. Add oil to the pot and sauté the shallot for 2-3 minutes over medium heat: add the jalapeño, cumin, and coriander and cook for another 2-3 minutes.

3. Add the broth to the pot along with the asparagus, salt, and pepper, and bring to a boil and simmer until the asparagus is fork-tender. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 10 minutes.

4. Transfer the asparagus mixture to a free-standing blender and add the avocado and crème fraîche. Puree until smooth.

5. Optional: for extra creaminess, you can also sieve the mixture into a large bowl.

6. Stir in the lime juice and adjust salt and pepper to taste.

7. Serve with your choice of garnish.

*Note: this soup can be served hot or cold and is best eaten in one sitting. Much like guacamole, this soup is best eaten the day you make it.

Wine pairing: Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre, Pinot Grigio, or Chablis are generally recommended.

Creamy Asparagus Soup →

It’s officially Spring-time in the Happy Valley when the farm stands start selling fresh, locally grown asparagus. There are many versions of this classic French Mediterranean soup. This version incorporates some of my favorite ingredients and is definitely not your typical canned Cream of Asparagus Soup. The addition of tarragon, shallot, and lemon zest add complexity to what is otherwise a fairly bland, slightly grassy tasting soup. Light enough to be served as a starter, yet rich enough to serve with a crusty bread as a light main course, this simple to make pale green, silky-creamy soup can be served either hot or cold and will be a hit with anyone who loves asparagus.

Yield 6 servings
Ingredients:

• 1 ½ pounds asparagus

• 5-6 cups chicken broth

• ½ cup crème fraîche (or sour cream: see *Note)

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon (or 2 teaspoons dry)

• 1 good size shallot chopped

• 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

• ¼ teaspoon salt; ¼ teaspoon pepper (or more to serve)

• 2 tablespoons butter

Preparation:

1. Cut about an inch off the bottom stems of asparagus and rinse well; cut into thirds.

2. Chop the shallot and tarragon.

3. Melt the butter in a large saucepan and add the shallot; saute for 2-3 minutes.

4. Add the tarragon and lemon zest and saute for 2 minutes.

5. Add the chicken broth, salt, and pepper, and asparagus. Bring to a boil and then simmer for about 4-5 minutes or until the asparagus are fork tender. Allow the soup to cool before adding it to the blender.

6. Working in batches puree the soup with the asparagus until smooth; sieve into a large bowl and repeat; add the crème fraîche to the last batch you puree, sieve, and mix well into the reserved soup in the large bowl.

7. Serve the soup warm or cold.

8. Garnish with chopped hard boiled egg and homemade toasted tarragon croutons, or reserve a few of the blanched asparagus tips to use as a garnish. (optional)

Tarragon Croutons:

• 1 cup of day old bread, crusts removed, cut into ½ inch cubes

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 teaspoon of dry tarragon

• 1/4-1/2 teaspoon salt

Preparation:

1. Place the bread cubes in a large bowl and drizzle with a tablespoon of olive oil; toss or mix to coat the bread with oil.

2. Add the tarragon and salt and toss/mix again.

3. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to a skillet over medium-high heat.

4. Spread the bread cubes in a single layer on the hot skillet and toast, stirring frequently until the cubes are golden brown and crunchy.

5. Remove from skillet and cool. Use as a garnish for soups and salads. The croutons will keep in a tightly closed container for several days.

*Note: crème fraîche and sour cream are used for similar purposes to add richness and to thicken cream sauces. Crème fraîche is a bit sweeter.

Wine Pairing: stay away from oaky Chardonnays and wines with high levels of tannin like Cabernet Sauvignon. Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre, Pinot Grigio, or Chablis are generally recommended.

Pasta e Fagioli (Pasta and Bean Soup) →

This dish came to me from my grandmother and falls into the category of “cucina povre” which literally means “poor kitchen” in Italian. It was a staple in the poor immigrant Italian community my grandmother lived in for much of her life. Simple, flavorful, and nourishing, it epitomizes “country” or “peasant” food. True to its humble origins, it is very adaptable to what you have on hand in your fridge or pantry. If you omit the pancetta, sausage, and parmesan, and substitute vegetable broth, it becomes vegetarian friendly. You can also throw in some chopped kale or spinach. Start by wilting the sofrito of onions, garlic, carrots, and celery. Add the tomatoes, beans, rosemary, and chicken (or vegetable) broth and bring to a boil. Add the ditalini or other small pasta shape and cook until “al dente” tender and you have a delicious one pot meal in about a half hour. Serve with a crusty bread to sop up the hearty broth.

Serves 6

Ingredients:

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• ½ slice of pancetta

• 1/2 lb. spicy (or sweet) Italian sausage (or a smokey sausage like Portuguese Linguiça)

• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

• 2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped

• 2 ribs celery, finely chopped

• 2 cups chopped kale or spinach (optional)

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• kosher salt

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 2 15-ounce cans Great Northern Beans (or Cannellini Beans)

• 1 15-ounce. can diced tomatoes

• 1+ 32-ounce box chicken broth

• 1 Bay leaf

• 2-3 sprigs rosemary, leaves finely chopped (2 tsp. dried rosemary)

• 1/2 teaspoon ground fennel seed (optional, but recommended if you don’t use Italian sausage)

• 1 cup ditalini or small elbow pasta (or other small shape)

• Freshly grated Parmesan, for garnish

• Freshly chopped parsley, for garnish

Directions:

1. Heat the oil in a large, deep pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and sausage and cook, breaking up the sausage with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, about 5 minutes.

2. Stir in the onion, carrots, and celery and cook until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 minute more.

3. Add the beans (with their liquid), diced tomatoes, chicken broth, Bay leaf and rosemary and any leafy greens you want to add.

4. Bring to a boil, then stir in the ditalini. Reduce heat to medium and cook until pasta is al dente tender, about 8 minutes.

5. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper to your taste. Serve in bowls garnished with Parmesan and parsley.

**Note: If your cooking a big pot of soup, you might prefer to cook the pasta in the amount of soup for each meal. Reheating the pasta in the soup multiple times results in over-cooked pasta that has absorbed a lot of your broth. Ladle out the number of serving for your meal and bring it to a boil. Add about a ½ cup of dried pasta for two people.

Similar to a recipe at: https://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/rachael-ray/pasta-and-beans-pasta-e-fagioli-recipe-1939374

Shrimp and Scallop Chowder →

Makes 4 bowls or 6 small cups
Ingredients:

• 1 tablespoon salt pork + 2 teaspoons olive oil (optional)

• 2-3 tablespoons butter

• 1 shallot finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons celery, chopped

• 1/4 cup fresh fennel bulb chopped (fronds reserved for garnish)

• 1-2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning (to taste; optional; available at your local market)

• 2 Russet potatoes peeled and cut in 1/2 inch dice

• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 1 cup bottled clam juice

• 2 cups milk

• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

• 1 cup whipping cream

• 8 ounces scallops

• 8 ounces shrimp

• 2 tablespoons sherry wine
  
  Special Equipment: 
  a dutch oven or other heavy bottom pot

Preparation:
1. Heat the olive oil and brown the salt pork (if you don't use the salt pork, skip this step and melt 3 tablespoons of butter)
2. Melt the butter and saute the vegetables with the Old Bay Seasoning.
3. Mix in the flour stirring to make a roux; cook, stirring regularly for 5 minutes over medium to medium-low heat.
4. Add the warmed milk and clam juice to make the broth.
5. Add the diced potatoes and cook over medium heat until almost fork tender (about 10 minutes)
6. Add the freshly ground black pepper, tomato paste, and heavy cream and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring to incorporate the cream and tomato paste into the broth.
7. Add the sherry, scallops, and shrimp and simmer (don't boil) over medium-low heat for 3-5 minutes.
8. Serve in bowls and garnish with chopped fennel fronds.

Serve as a main course in bowls with a crusty bread and salad, or as a first-course starter in cups.
For wine, opt for a balanced, not too minerally white wine. A softer Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, or a crisp French Burgundy or not too buttery Chardonnay from California will pair well with this rich, creamy seafood dish.

West African Diaspora Peanut Stew →

Years ago, I discovered and then lost a wonderful recipe for West African peanut stew with chicken. In my search for the original recipe, I found the recipe for West African Peanut Stew by Mark Bittman @nytcooking and that provided a starting point for me to reconstruct the original recipe and channel some of my love of West Indian-African inspired cooking. Full of warm flavors like ginger, garlic, and curry powder; along with tender kale, red tomatoes, and bright orange sweet potatoes or yams, this fragrant, sweet-and-savory, hearty stew can be made vegetarian without sacrificing flavor by leaving out the chicken. If you’re like me and love the flavor combination of peanuts, coconut, garlic, ginger, and curry and want a stew full of colorful, healthy veggies, this one’s for you.

Serves 6
Ingredients:

• ¾ cup roasted and shelled peanuts

• 2 tablespoons peanut or other neutral oil, like canola or corn (*Note: I wanted to include more coconut flavor, so I used coconut oil.)

• 1 medium red or white onion, chopped

• 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

• 1 tablespoon minced garlic

• 2 teaspoon curry powder (use 1 teaspoon if you want less curry flavor)

• 1 ½ pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts or thighs cut into chunks

• 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, and minced finely (If you want to “kick-it-up-a-notch”add ¼ teaspoon of cayenne along with the jalapeño, or substitute a Scotch Bonnet pepper.)

• Salt

• freshly ground black pepper

• 5 cups chicken stock + 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

• 2 sweet potatoes or yams, peeled and cut into thick slices

• 8 plum tomatoes, cored and halved (canned are fine; drain and reserve liquid for another use)

• 4 packed cups of kale, stems removed, torn into pieces

• ½ – 1 cup peanut butter, chunky or smooth

• ¼ cup cilantro for garnish

Preparation:

1. Chop the peanuts or pulse them in a food processor to chop coarsely.

2. Put oil in a heavy bottom pot over medium heat; a minute later, add onion, ginger, garlic and curry powder and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft, 3 to 5 minutes.

3. Add chicken and continue cooking for another 3 or 4 minutes, until the pink surface color disappears.

4. Add 1/2 cup peanuts and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

5. Stir in the stock and coconut milk and the sweet potatoes, bring to a boil, and turn the heat down to medium-low so the soup bubbles gently.

6. Stir in the tomatoes and kale, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes.

7. Stir in 3/4 cup peanut butter. Taste, adjust seasoning (you may want to add more peanut butter at this point) and serve, garnished with remaining peanuts and cilantro.

Wine pairing: a Chenin Blanc, Viognier, or dry Riesling will pair nicely with this dish.

Adapted from: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1012581-west-african-peanut-soup-with-chicken

Clam Soup with Navy Beans and Pancetta

In New England, one of our traditional comfort foods is rich, creamy, sweet and briny Clam Chowder flavored with fresh Little Neck clams, cream, thyme, onions, garlic, diced potatoes, and salt pork or slab bacon. Here’s an easy to make, satisfying Mediterranean inspired alternative to the iconic New England chowder that uses a milk-free rich broth of clam juice and white wine; fresh chopped clams; pancetta, instead of bacon or salt pork; and white navy beans instead of potatoes. I hope you enjoy it with friends and family.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 small onion, finely chopped

• 1/3 cup diced pancetta

• 3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

• ½ c. day old bread cut into ½ “ croutons

• One 15-ounce can navy beans with their liquid

• 3 sprigs of fresh thyme (½ tsp. dried)

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 packet Sazón Goya with saffron

• 2 cups of clam juice (available from your fish monger or supermarket)

• ½ c. dry white wine

• Freshly ground pepper

• 1 3/4 - 2 cups chopped clams (if you don’t want to shuck your own clams, check in with your local fishmonger, or the fresh fish counter at your local supermarket.)

• 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

• crusty bread (optional)

*Note: you can also add 15-20 small Little Neck clams in their shells in place of the chopped clams. After you bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and add the clams, cover and cook about 3 minutes or just until the shells open. Remove from the heat and discard any clams whose shells have not opened.

Preparation:

1. In a large deep skillet, heat a tablespoon of olive oil until shimmering, brown the croutons and set aside.
2. Wipe out the skillet, heat a tablespoon of olive oil until shimmering and brown the pancetta; set aside.
3. Add a tablespoon of olive oil to the skillet and the onion and cook over moderately high heat until softened, about 3 minutes.
4. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant. (don’t let it burn or it will be bitter)
5. Deglaze the skillet with the white wine making sure to scrape up any browned bits on the skillet, add the reserved clam juice, add the beans and their liquid along with the thyme, Sazón, pancetta, and bay leaf and bring to a boil.
6. Simmer the soup over low heat for 10 minutes; discard the bay leaf and sprigs of thyme.
7. Add the clams, bring the soup to a boil over high heat; reduce to low-heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
8. Sprinkle the soup with the croutons and parsley and serve.

You may want some good quality, crusty bread to help sop up the flavorful soup broth

An Italian Vermentino, Spanish Albariño, or Sauvignon Blanc or other medium bodied dry white wine pairs well with this dish.

Mediterranean Seafood Stew →

Variations of the famous French fish stew, Bouillabaisse, can be found in almost any coastal town on the Mediterranean Sea. Bouillabaisse purists, among them the Michelin Guide Vert, love to point out that authentic Bouillabaisse is only made using racasse, a rock fish local to Marseille. Legend has it that, Bouillabaisse originated from the kitchens of local fishermen who made a fish stew using the trash fish from their catch of the day. Julia Child wrote: "to me the telling flavor of bouillabaisse comes from two things: the Provençal soup base—garlic, onions, tomatoes, olive oil, fennel, saffron, thyme, bay, and usually a bit of dried orange peel—and, of course, the fish—lean (non-oily), firm-fleshed, soft-fleshed, gelatinous, and shellfish." So, channeling Julia’s common sense approach to cooking, and not wanting to insult the folks at the Michelin Guide Vert, this recipe uses the traditional flavors of a bouillabaisse paired with our local New England seafood and we call it Mediterranean Fish Stew. No matter what you call it, it’s delicious!

6 servings

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 3 leeks, white and pale green parts only, halved and thinly sliced

• 1 fennel bulb, halved, cored, and thinly sliced, fronds reserved

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 5 garlic cloves, minced

• 4 cups seafood stock or bottled clam juice

• One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes

• Zest and juice of 1 orange

• Pinch saffron (if you don’t want to spend the money on saffron you can substitute 1 packet of Sazón with Saffron seasoning)

• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme chopped (tough stems removed)

• 1 bay leaf

• 2 pounds cod, cut into 3 inch serving size pieces

• 1 ½ pounds shrimp, cleaned and peeled

• 1 ½ pounds mussels, cleaned and de-bearded

• ½ cup chopped fresh parsley

• 2 Tbs. Anisette, Pernod, or Pastis (optional)

• Crusty bread, for serving

Preparation:

1. In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the leeks and fennel and sauté until tender, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Add the seafood stock or clam juice, tomatoes, orange zest and juice, saffron, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook until the liquid has reduced slightly, 12 to 15 minutes.

3. Add the cod and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and mussels and cover the pot. Simmer until the seafood is fully cooked (the fish will be firm, the shrimp will be pink, and the mussels will be open and plump and juicy), about 4 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels.

4. Stir in the parsley and anise flavored liquor. Top with the reserved fennel fronds and serve with the bread.

Adapted from: https://www.purewow.com/recipes/30-minute-one-pot-cheaters-bouillabaisse

Lamb Stew with Root Vegetables

This is a wonderful French-style lamb stew that uses the anise flavors in tarragon and fennel to highlight the rich delicacy of the lamb. The added root vegetables make this a meal in a bowl. Omit any of the root vegetables you may not care for.

serves: 8

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

• Salt and freshly ground pepper

• 4 pounds boneless lamb shoulder or top round, cut into 2-inch cubes

• 1/2 cup olive oil

• 2 cups dry red wine

• 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

• 4 cups chicken stock

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon (or 2+ tsp. dried)

• 1 pound baby carrots, peeled

• 1 pound baby parsnips, peeled (or regular parsnips cut into 1 ½ inch pieces

• 1 pound small fingerling potatoes

• 1/2 pound baby turnips, halved (or regular turnip cut into 1 ½ inch cubes)

• 1 cup of cored, chopped fennel bulb, fronds saved

• 1 large shallot, minced

• 2 tablespoons minced parsley

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Put the flour in a large bowl and season generously with salt and pepper. Add the lamb cubes in 4 batches, tossing to coat thoroughly.

2. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add one-fourth of the lamb cubes and cook over moderately high heat until browned, about 6 minutes; transfer to a plate. Brown the remaining floured lamb in 3 batches, adding 2 tablespoons of oil to the pot per batch. Reduce the heat if the casserole bottom darkens too much.

3. Return all of the lamb to the casserole. Add the wine and vinegar and bring to a boil scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the stock and tarragon and return to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the casserole and braise the stew in the oven for about 1 hour, or until the meat is nearly tender.

4. Add the carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, fennel and shallot to the lamb stew. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil, stirring to distribute the vegetables. Cover the casserole, return it to the oven and cook until the meat and vegetables are tender, about 1 hour longer. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the parsley and fennel fronds and serve the stew in deep bowls accompanied by a crusty bread to sop up the juices.

A medium-bodied red wine like a Cotes du Rhone, Tempranillo, Garnacha, or lighter Pinot Noir will compliment the flavors in this stew.

Adapted from: https://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/lamb-stew-with-root-vegetables

Beef Stew →

This hearty, rich stew is kind of a cross between a traditional Beef Stew and a Boeuf Bourguignon. The best of both worlds. Serve with plenty of good crusty bread to sop up the delicious sauce. The flavor improves the next day.

Ingredients:
Serves 6-8

For the braised beef:

• 5 pounds boneless beef chuck (not lean), cut into 2-inch pieces

• 3 ounces pancetta, or slab bacon

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 carrots, quartered

• 3 celery ribs, quartered

• 2 medium onions, quartered

• 10 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

• 3 tablespoons tomato paste

• 1 (750-ml) bottle of dry red wine (about 3 3/4 cups)

• 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California

• 2 thyme sprigs (or 1 teaspoon of dried thyme)

• 12 juniper berries (optional)

• 3 cups reduced-sodium beef broth

For the vegetables:

• 2 1/2 pounds small white boiling potatoes (or Russet potatoes peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes)

• 1 1/2 pounds of carrots peeled and cut diagonally into 1-inch slices.

• 1 cup of frozen peas (optional)

• parsley for garnish (optional)

Preparation:

Braise the beef: 
Preheat oven to 325°F with a rack in middle.

1. Pat the beef dry and season generously with salt and pepper.

2. Brown the pancetta in an oven-proof heavy pot like a dutch oven; remove the browned pancetta and set aside. Leave any of the flavorful fat that accumulated in the pot

3. If needed add 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pot and heat over medium-high heat until the oil shimmers.

4. Add the meat to the pot and brown the meat, in 3 batches, turning to brown on both sides, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer the meat to a platter and tent.

5. Reduce the heat to medium, then add carrots, celery, onions, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned and caramelized for about 12 minutes.

6. Push the vegetables to one side of the pot. Add tomato paste to the cleared area and cook the paste, stirring for 2 minutes, then stir into vegetables

7. Stir in the wine scraping up the brown crusty fond on the bottom of the pot. Add the bouquet garni (see note) of bay leaves, juniper berries, and thyme, and boil until the wine is reduced by about two-thirds, 10 to 12 minutes.

8. Add the broth to the pot along with the beef and any juices from the platter and bring to a simmer. Add more water if needed so the meat is covered with liquid. Cover and braise in the oven until the meat is very tender, about 2-2 1/2 hours.

9. While the beef braises, peel potatoes and cut them into 1-inch cubes; slice carrots diagonally into 1-inch pieces.

10. After 2-2 1/2 hours, remove the pot from the oven. The meat should be very tender. Set a colander in a large bowl and strain the stew into the bowl. Return the pieces of meat to the pot along with the liquid, remove the bouquet garni, and add the remaining vegetables to a food processor or blender. Add some additional liquid if necessary in order to puree and liquify the vegetables.

11. Puree the vegetables and return the puree to the liquids and meat in the pot. (This will add richness and thicken the stew.) Let the cooking liquid stand for 10 minutes. If the stew is too thick, you can add additional water to bring the consistency of the stew to your preference.

12. Add the potatoes and carrots to the stew (make sure they are submerged) and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes and carrots are fork tender, about 30 minutes. (Optional: add frozen peas for the last five minutes. Garnish with parsley before serving.)

13. Serve with crusty bread.

BEEF STEW in Tea Dust Glaze Porcelaine Bowl by Guy Matsuda @plainfieldpottery

*Note: a bouquet garni is a tied pouch of cheesecloth filled with fresh or dried aromatic herbs often used when braising to infuse flavor into a sauce or stew; to be removed before finishing the stew.

** Note: the stew improves in flavor if made a day ahead. Allow to cool, cover, and chill for up to 5 days. Reheat, covered, over medium heat or in a 350°F oven.

Wine pairing: A full-bodied red wine like a Cabernet Sauvignon, Rioja, Bordeaux, Haut Medoc, Barolo, Barbaresco, or Super-Tuscan complements this rich stew.